When you look at a piece of jewelry the first thing you probably notice is the overall design, or the fabulous gemstones that may be in the jewel. One important aspect of jewelry design and construction is how a gemstone is set. There are many setting styles and each one has its own features that contribute to the overall look of the piece, whether it’s a ring, pendant, bracelet, or earrings, settings matter. Let’s take a look at some setting styles and what they look like.
Au Jour Setting
Au jour is a French word that literally means “open to the day”. An au jour setting is an open work back created by cutting the metal where the stones will be placed to allow light to come through the gem giving it a brighter, more lively, and more sparkly appearance. Sometimes the au jours are cut in different shapes creating a pattern on the back of the jewel. This type of setting uses less metal, resulting in a lighter weight piece. It’s also easier to clean a piece of jewelry with this type of setting as the gems are exposed. Au jour settings are often found in high-end jewelry.
Bezel Setting
A bezel setting, sometimes called a collet setting, is a type of setting with a thin metal band that wraps around the girdle of a gemstone or diamond to hold it in place. Once the stone is placed in the setting the metal is then pressed down on the top edges of the stone to hold it securely. This is a setting where the stone is low, so it’s good for people who are very active as the bezel protects the gem. There is also a half bezel, that goes part way around the stone, leaving some of it exposed, allowing more light to flow through the stone for more brilliance, although exposed areas of the stone, could chip if it gets knocked around. If a stone is set high in a bezel, it creates the illusion that the stone is larger, however, set low in the bezel, it can make the gem look smaller. Overall, bezels are a very chic and sophisticated setting.
Channel Setting
A channel setting is a type of setting where the gems are placed tightly together in a groove so that they are all touching. There are no prongs or other types of metal between the stones. The metal edges on the channel setting are folded over to hold the stones in place, which also offers the gems some protection from the wear and tear of daily life. With this setting you get a smooth, uninterrupted flow of gemstones and since there are no prongs, there is nothing to snag your clothes. One challenge of this type of setting is that the piece will need to be cleaned frequently to keep it at its sparkling best as debris can get between the stones, dulling their sparkle. Pieces with channel settings are often hard, if not impossible to resize. It’s a simple, minimalist setting for those who like contemporary style.
Closed Back Setting
A closed back setting is when there is metal behind the stone on a piece of jewelry so that only the top of the stone is visible, it is often used with foil backed gemstones to protect the foiling (see more on foil backed settings below). Closed back settings were commonly used during the Georgian and Victorian eras, which offers a way of dating a jewel. The closed back is often as beautiful as the front of the piece, minus the gemstones. One advantage to a closed back setting with a large gemstone is that when you’re wearing the piece it won’t pick up the color of whatever clothing you are wearing; a pale gemstone in a closed setting won’t turn dark when worn against black apparel, for example, which is why this setting type is still sometimes used in contemporary jewelry.
Flush Setting
In a flush setting, also known as a gypsy setting, the gemstones are sunken directly in the metal so they are flush with the surface, which is why this type of setting is called a “flush setting”. The metal is then moved around the stone to hold it in place and because the stone is sunken into the metal, it is well protected, making it a good choice for everyday wear, but it can be difficult to resize a ring with this setting. Jewelry with a flush setting has a modern, minimalist feeling.
Foil Back Setting
Diamonds and sometimes colored gemstones were “foil-backed” or “foiled” in the Georgian era to make the diamonds brighter or to enhance the hue of colored gemstones. The process involves backing the stone with a very thin metallic, or non-metallic, sheet. Sometimes the foil was colored to amp-up the color of the gems. Foil-backed gemstones are almost always in closed back settings to protect the foil from being damaged. A rather fragile process, foil-backing can be easily damaged by exposure to water. This type of setting is found primarily in Georgian era jewelry.
Invisible Setting
Invisible setting is a process in which gems with a groove on the girdle are inserted into a fine gold net-like frame that holds the stones in place so that no metal is showing and the stones appear to float. There are no prongs or visible metal in this setting, making the stones appear to be one continuous wall of gems, creating an impressive impact of cohesive stones. This type of setting uses square or rectangular cut gems as those shapes will fit the technical requirements of the metal frame. The invisible setting is a very labor and technically intensive process that requires a skilled artisan. Invisible settings were masterminded by Van Cleef & Arpels and in 1933 the firm patented the process under the name “Mystery Set”. Other designers use this setting technique, but may refer to it as invisible setting.
Knife Edge Setting
A knife edge setting is a style of ring band that has a raised center that creates a sharp (knife), creased look that allows for more light reflection and shine. Knife edge bands tend to look slimmer and hold only one gem, keeping the focus on the stone. There appears to be less metal in a knife edge setting, so it makes the gemstone look bigger. It’s perfect for someone who likes a modern, minimalist style.
Pavé Setting
Pavé is A type of setting where many tiny diamonds are set so closely together that no metal shows and the surface looks as if it is paved in stones. It’s a setting style that maximizes sparkle. The word pavé means “to pave” in French. The technique can be used to create an outline on a piece, or to fully cover the surface. Pavé is used only with diamonds and requires a great deal of skill to precisely set the tiny diamonds, using small beads of metal that are raised from the surface of the piece. The look is voluptuous and glamorous.
Prong Setting
A prong set is a type of setting that uses tines, or prongs, to hold a gemstone or diamond in place. Before the stone is set the prongs stick up from the basket where the stone will be placed inside the prongs, which are then pressed into place and polished. Prong settings allow light to enter the stone making the gem livelier and more sparkly. Most prong settings use four to six prongs, but this versatile setting can also be found with as few as two prongs and as many as eight. Sometimes jewelry makers use the prongs as part of the design of a jewel.
Even though we don’t really give much thought to the settings in our jewelry, the way a piece is set makes a subtly big difference in the look and style of a jewel. The next time you’re looking at jewelry, take a closer look at the setting to discover how it enhances the overall design.
Top of Page: Courtesy Jorge Franganillo, WikiCommons
Authored by Amber Michelle