Turtles Bejeweled

Swimming in the water or sunning themselves on land, turtles, with their methodical movements and patterned shells are beautiful models for jewelry. Turtles are not only lovely to look at, but they are filled with symbolism from different cultures around the world. Jewelers have taken inspiration from these creatures that live on both land and water and turned them into covetable jewels. 

The Jewelers Muse

Edwardian diamond, demantoid garnet and 18-karat gold turtle pendant/brooch, courtesy J.&S.S. DeYoung (@laurendeyoungjewelry).

Jewelry designers often look to the zoological world for inspiration, interpreting various animals portrayed to echo their brand ethos. Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and David Webb have all been recognized for their jeweled menageries. From friendly to fierce the animal kingdom has been a muse for jewelers since ancient times and turtles have been a favorite of the sea animals. 

Turtles have deep symbolic meaning in many cultures around the world and are rendered in jewelry to reflect those beliefs. In some cultures turtles are sacred, venerated for their ability to swim in water and walk on land, showcasing its adaptability and how that is required to live one’s life to the fullest. 

The Weight of the World

Chalcedony and 18-karat gold turtle brooch, signed Cartier, circa 1960s, courtesy Jewelry World (@jewelryworldofficial).

In Native American culture it is believed that the world was created on the back of a turtle, making them guardians of the earth. The ability of a turtle to move between land and water also symbolizes the connection between the physical and spiritual worlds. In this culture turtles are sometimes associated with female energy and fertility as well as being a symbol of Mother Earth.

Chinese mythology states that a turtle transformed into land, birthing human civilization. In China turtles are associated with wealth, prosperity and abundance as well as female reproductive health. Fittingly, turtle jewelry is sometimes worn during pregnancy as a protective talisman, making it a perfect gift for a mom on her birthday or for Mother’s Day.

In Hinduism, it is believed that that world sits on the back of an enormous turtle. In India, turtles are also linked to meditation, the retreat into their shells is associated with introspection. In traditional Hawaiian society, turtles are considered to be a connection between humanity, the ocean and earth.  Turtles live to be over 100 years old, so it’s no wonder they are related to  longevity and good health. With hard armor like shells, turtles are also seen as protective, so wearing turtle jewelry is said to be protective for the one wearing the jewel. 

The Shell and the Moon

Carved sugilite and 14-karat gold turtle brooch, circa 1980s, courtesy Paul Fisher, Inc. (@paulfisherjewelry).

It is perhaps the turtle shell that is its most striking feature. Each turtle shell is patterned according to its species so they all have different identifying marks and colors, giving jewelers plenty of ideas for bringing these creatures to life in precious metals and gemstones.

Some turtles are connected to the moon. This is because of the turtle’s shell. When you look at its back it has a patterned, bumpy texture that covers the top of the shell, known as scutes. The shell itself is called a carapace. The connection with the moon came about because there are generally 13 scutes on a turtle shell corresponding with the 13 lunar cycles in a year. Additionally, the carapace has 28 ridges that go around it, representing the 28 days between each full moon. The shell has provided much inspiration for the designs of turtle jewelry. 

Victorians loved nature and turtles were sometimes found in brooches and other jewelry items. Turtles were also a favored motif for the Edwardians. Today, turtles are more than just symbols of love, happiness and longevity. By wearing turtle jewelry, they are also a gentle reminder to care for the earth, the water and all of its inhabitants. 

Top of Page: Vintage diamond, sapphire and 18-karat gold turtle brooch, signed Tiffany & Co., courtesy Fortrove, Inc. (@fortrove).

Authored by Amber Michelle