Every so often a jewelry collector comes along who assembles an epic collection, that not only showcases the sparkle and glamour that jewelry dreams are made of, but also tells the story of the collector. That is the tale of Radiance and Reverie: Jewels from the Collection of Neil Lane, an exhibition at the Toledo Museum of Art, running now through January 18, 2026. The exhibition is accompanied by a book of the same name, written by Emily Stoehrer and Diane Wright, that catalogs the collection. Published by Rizzoli Electa, the 320 page tome is packed with images and details about each piece as well as stories about Lane as a collector and essays from jewelry experts, Marion Fasel and Claudine Seroussi Bretagne, who explore different aspects of the collection. An additional essay by Mayukh Sen, discusses Hollywood culture.
A Jeweled Autobiography
“We spent six months shooting the jewelry for the book,” explains Wright, senior curator of glass and contemporary craft at the Toledo Museum of Art. “It’s a visual feast, one of those exhibitions worth traveling to see.”
Neil Lane is known for styling Hollywood stars for the red carpet, an engagement ring collection at Kay Jewelers and as the maker of the engagement rings for The Bachelor television series. A jewelry dealer and designer himself, Lane sees many pieces of jewelry and chooses to keep certain items for his own collection. “This collection is like his autobiography. These are pieces that he loved so much he couldn’t part with them,” comments Stoehrer, who wrote her doctoral dissertation on Lane’s collection. “Neil’s attraction to many of these works of art was immediate, it was visceral and he could not bear to part with them.”
A Magical Space
Over the years Lane has developed a very large collection, of which over 150 pieces are included in the exhibition. The exhibition is divided into three sections that follow major design movements, as well as Lane’s career and collection. The first section, Paris: The World Stage, explores an historical moment when through international exhibitions and world’s fairs jewelry was an important offering on the global stage. Section two, New York: An American Jewelry House, focuses on Tiffany & Co., featuring 38 jewels from the storied house. Section three, Hollywood: Glamour, showcases jewelry worn by movie stars walking the red carpet including, Jennifer Garner, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson and Jennifer Lawrence.
“The exhibition does not include everything in Neil’s collection, we made some tough choices to cut some pieces to make the space feel as amazing and magical as possible,” comments Stoehrer, guest curator and the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan senior curator of jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. “There has to be room for the pieces to breathe, so that visitors can come in and see the jewelry as works of art.”
Lane was heavily involved throughout the process of mounting the exhibition and compiling the book. Wright and Stoehrer visited him in Los Angeles and he helped to determine what would be included in the exhibit. “The exhibition takes you through different places and there is also an audio tour that has Neil’s voice,” says Wright.
Lane Interviewed by Wright
At the conclusion of the book, Wright interviews Lane about his career, how he started and how his fascination with jewelry began. Lane grew up in Brooklyn, combing the sidewalks and finding cool discarded items that he resold. He eventually made his way to Paris where he began buying and selling posters from the 1890s through the 1930s. While in Paris, he began purchasing gold jewelry from the 19th century. He studied these pieces carefully, learning about craftsmanship and design.
In the early 1980s Lane began visiting Los Angeles for business, eventually moving there and setting up shop in Antiquarius, a building for antique dealers, fortuitously located across the street from a talent agency. Celebrities started coming into the space and Lane built up a small clientele who referred him to their friends. Over time he developed an A-list clientele including Lena Horne, Lauren Bacall, Warren Beatty and Jack Nicholson among others. In the early 1990s, Lane began loaning jewelry for the red carpet. The interview also shares how Lane became involved with Kay Jewelers and The Bachelor television franchise.
Red Carpet Presence
One of the first independent jewelers to style jewelry for red carpet events, Lane helped to bring awareness of vintage jewelry to the public. “Neil had a tremendous impact on creating interest in vintage jewelry during the 1990s,” remarks Stoehrer. “The jewelry was covered by People, InStyle, WWD and others, so people heard his name. The collection creates a visual sense and look of Neil Lane. It has pieces that were worn at historic cultural moments, such as the necklace that Madonna wore when she kissed Britney Spears at the VMA awards, or the necklace worn by Jennifer Lawrence at the Oscars.”
According to Stoehrer and Wright, Neil Lane has one of the most important jewelry collections in the country. While a good portion of it is on display in the Toledo Museum of Art, the book also features images of pieces not included in the exhibition and is a noteworthy addition to any jewelry collector or enthusiast’s library.
Top of Page: Book cover for Radiance and Reverie: Jewels from the Collection of Neil Lane, published by Rizzoli Electa ©2025.
Authored by Amber Michelle