The sparkle of pristine colorless diamonds has dazzled us for decades — the pinnacle of beauty, glamour and success. But move over white diamonds, there’s a new kid on the block whose popularity is surging: Brown diamonds. These warm hued gems range in color from a light bubbly champagne to a deep rich cognac and everything in between. While these tawny toned gems have all the sparkle of a colorless diamond, they also have a soft, romanticism and uniqueness to them that is appealing to a new generation of diamond enthusiasts.
Diamond powerhouse De Beers, is getting behind these earthy hued gems, with a mighty marketing campaign meant to bring a new awareness to these sparklers, that the firm has dubbed Desert diamonds. “With Desert diamonds, the ancient sands of time meet today’s zeitgeist for authentic beauty. Natural diamonds are unique and rare – no two are the same. Their colors have been forged by nature and perfected over billions of years. Desert diamonds represent the pinnacle of our Earth’s creations,” explains Sandrine Conseiller, CEO of De Beers Brands & Diamond Desirability, in a press statement.
Vintage jewelry is filled with diamonds that fall into this new range of “soft colors”. Until the early decades of the 20th century, there was no color grading, or 4Cs. The 4C’s grading system was introduced in the early 1940s by Robert Shipley, who founded the Gemological Institute of America. What that means is that prior to that time, people were buying diamonds based solely on how they looked.
The Soft Tints of Vintage Diamonds
Many old mine diamonds have a tint of champagne that make them appear to be a warm white, glowing from within like candlelight, not enough to be fully considered brown, but enough to be noticeably colored. These lovely warm tinted diamonds make a unique statement of individuality, as the colors vary ever so slightly from gem to gem. These are the perfect stones for people who want something a little different that sets your diamond apart from those of your friends, or family members. Or maybe you already have a colorless diamond, or two and want something a little different, brown diamonds are a beautiful and affordable addition to your jewelry wardrobe. And with so many shades of brown, there is sure to be a tone that suits your style.
What Makes Diamonds Brown?
Natural brown diamonds get their color as they are forming deep inside the earth. According to the American Gem Society, the extreme heat and pressure that diamonds experience as they are growing, causes a structural shift along the planes of the crystal lattice, which changes how light is reflected in the stone, creating shades of brown. While brown diamonds can be found in almost any mine, they were mostly used for industrial purposes until the 1980s when a large discovery of these stones was made at the now closed Argyle Diamond Mine in Australia. They were so abundant and pretty, that the diamonds were set in jewelry and marketed for their desirability and uniqueness, creating a whole new diamond offering that was both accessible and fashionable.
Diamond Headlines
Warm white and brown toned diamonds have recently made headlines when Travis Kelce proposed to Taylor Swift with an old mine cut diamond that had a slightly warm tint. Doja Cat and Kim Kardashian have also styled desert diamonds into their looks, while Bad Bunny wore a desert diamond when he announced that he would be the halftime entertainment at the 2026 Super Bowl.
“We are seeing desire for unique, characterful diamonds growing everywhere, from celebrity engagements to everyday style. More and more people want a diamond that reflects their own story, something truly individual to mark the most precious moments in their life,” says Conseiller.
If you’re getting engaged, or just looking for a pretty new piece of jewelry and you want something that no one else will have, you’ll find many vintage jewels to consider with warm, softly tinted diamonds that will truly express your personal style.
Top of page: 5.01-carat natural fancy deep brown yellow diamond, white diamond and 18-karat gold ring, signed Chaumet, courtesy Kathryn Bonanno (@kathryn_bonanno).
Authored by Amber Michelle